Paris Fashion Week Men’s is heating up this week with the strong return to shows this season, after years of digital events and presentations now in the rear-view mirror.
John Elliott opened the week as the first physical fashion show on Tuesday, followed by presentations from Bianca Saunders and Isabel Marant. Thom Browne and Celine are expected to close the festivities on Sunday night. In between, spring/summer 2023 collections from Givenchy, Nahmias, Ami, Amiri, Acne Studios, Craig Green and more will be must-sees.
Below, a look at everything you need to know about Paris Fashion Week Men’s spring/summer 2023 season, from buzzy runway moments, the best shoes at presentations around the city, and the top trends from showrooms, parties and more.
KidSuper has teased another shoe concept in collaboration with 3D-printed footwear company Zellerfeld at Paris Fashion Week Men’s on Friday.
The new ‘Heal Your Soul, Heel Your Sole’ concept shoe takes on a contemporary approach to a men’s platform heel, featuring a fully functional heel printed with mixed textures and a closed seal outsole, all in a royal blue color. Continuing KidSuper’s affection for portrait style design and use of painterly portraits within his collections, the shoe also features faces – which are printed on the shoe’s vamp and heel counter.
This one-of-one concept shoe was inspired by vintage men’s platform shoes but with all the benefits of 3D printing: mono-material, fully recyclable, no stitches or gluing of components or human construction required.
“3D printing has allowed me to fully think outside the box,” said Colm Dillane, founder and designer of KidSuper. “When designing these shoes, I kept having to tell myself that anything is possible, there are no restrictions. This thought process has never been possible in the shoe industry until now. I can’t wait to show you what I come up with next.”
Designer Mike Amiri showed his latest collection in the Jardin des Plantes in Paris.
Casual shapes create roomy suiting that’s paired with pleated wide-leg trousers reminiscent of baggy skate pants. Tracksuit silhouettes are reimagined in tie- dyed silk charmeuse with drawstring hems, aged appliqué makes perforated football jerseys appear well-worn, their crocodile leather panels evoking shoulder padding, and shorts are elongated like those worn by punks and skaters alike.
Footwear expands this season with the introduction of the MA Two – an homage to the world of skateboarding, designed for comfort on and off the board. The shoe is crafted with exaggerated dimensions, oversized rubber sole and perforated star details.
Ami presented its men’s and women’s spring/summer 2023 collection at the foot of Paris’ Sacre Coeur Basilica in Montmartre.
The brand continues to embrace its distinctly Parisian soul. The collection derives its name, Cœur Sacré, from the basilica overlooking Paris, atop the Butte Montmartre. The spring/summer ‘23 is rich, sexy and eclectic, with a deliciously retro vibe of the ‘60s. The collection, in Ami’s trademark versatile color palette, aims to capture the allure and free-spirited mood of Montmartre and the people who gravitate there.
On the runway, Ami unveiled Le Besace Bag, its latest bag and a new take on Le Voulez-Vous bag includes a fancy range of new materials, on top of the original soft leather: a woven leather, as well as a denim jacquard and summery raffia.
California-based designer Doni Nahmias introduced his first footwear style as part of his eponymous label’s spring/summer 2023 collection.
Unveiled on Thursday at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris during the city’s men’s fashion week, the sneaker, dubbed the “Five-O,” merges two of Nahmias’ favorite shoes to create a low top basketball silhouette featuring a higher platform and an air bubble detail on the sole.
Isabel Marant showed its spring/summer 2023 menswear collection along the banks of the Seine River on Tuesday.
The collection features bleached, lilac and acid washed denim – evoke a ‘90s sensibility. Along the same vein, tie-dye fabrics and layerings of stripes and patterns are reminiscent of grunge signatures while neon colors and sportswear items with graphic details evoke the spectrum of techno. As for footwear, the designer showed a high-top sneaker and rope-detailed sandal – both in various colorways.
Hosted at the historic Jardin des Plantes on June 22, Reese Cooper marks his first official live appearance on the Paris Fashion Week Men’s calendar with a runway show and presentation aptly named “Seed & Soil.”
Mixed within Cooper’s largest collection to date is a collaboration with Levi’s that includes 10 traditional pieces updated with a Reese Cooper flare. Teased ahead of Fashion Week, the collaboration will be available for sale at a Reese Cooper x Levi’s Pop-Up in Paris and online after the show on the Reese Cooper webstore. Cooper also worked with Levi’s deadstock to create a number of one-of-one reconstructed pants and jackets for both men and women.
A first look at the Reese Cooper x Thierry Lasry sunglasses collaboration is also unveiled. Cooper’s affinity for camouflage, forest green and signal orange were the perfect fit for the Thierry Lasry Flexxy which will release later this summer.
For footwear, the category continues to be a standout for the brand. The recognizable Wilson Boots and newly designed Lanier Boots are shown alongside an ongoing collaborative partnership with Merrell 1TRL.
Los Angeles-based designer John Elliott showed his spring/summer 2023 collection at the Le Centre Pompidou, the National Museum of Modern Art in Paris on Tuesday.
Called “Leap of Faith,” the fashion designer said in a statement that the collection was born from an idea about the energy of the last day of school mixed with the nervousness of the first day. “It started with the idea of how I want to dress right now, mixed with where I think the consumer is headed,” Elliott said. “My goal was to evolve the brand, which is what any creative director considers.”
The collection shown was built on a number of themes of neutrals, tailoring, leathers and womenswear. With a grown-up attitude, this season showed a more sophisticated sign from the designer who is known for his casual pieces. As for footwear, Elliott showed boots and high-top sneakers for men, with heeled sandals for women.